Overview
For most people, having their floors sanded is not a regular occurrence. Knowing what is going to happen, how long it will take, and what to expect during and after the job removes a lot of the stress. Here is the full picture.
Before the Job
Book a consultation
A good floor sander will inspect the floor in person before quoting — checking the timber species, condition, thickness of existing boards, any previous finishes, subfloor type, and any repairs needed. Photos are useful for a rough estimate but no reputable tradesperson should price a large job sight-unseen.
Discuss the finish
Before the job starts, confirm your finish choice (water-based or solvent), sheen level (matte, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss), and any staining if required. Changing your mind mid-job is costly and sometimes impossible.
Organise alternative accommodation (solvent-based jobs)
If your tradesperson is using solvent-based polyurethane, the smell is strong enough that most households with children, elderly residents, or anyone with respiratory sensitivities should plan to stay elsewhere for at least 24 hours after the final coat. Water-based products are significantly better in this regard.
Move furniture out
Everything needs to come off the floor — all furniture, rugs, and loose items. Curtains and blinds that hang to the floor should also be removed or tied up to avoid contact with the sander.
Day One — Preparation and First Sand
Arrival
The crew will arrive with commercial drum or belt sanders, edge sanders, detail sanders, and dust extraction equipment. Expect noise — floor sanding is loud. If you are working from home, it is worth planning for this.
Dust
Modern professional equipment uses dust extraction bags and vacuum systems. The job is not dust-free but significantly less dusty than older equipment. Fine dust can still spread — close doors to rooms not being sanded, and be aware that electrostatics can carry fine particles onto surfaces some distance away.
The first cut
The first sanding pass is the most aggressive — removing the old finish, levelling uneven boards, and preparing the surface for the finer grits. The floor will look raw and stripped at this stage. This is normal.
Gaps and repairs
After the first cut, any board repairs, nail punching, and gap filling will be done. Flexible filler goes into cracks and gaps and needs to dry before the next stage.
Mid-Process — Sanding Stages
Floor sanding proceeds through multiple grits — starting coarse and finishing fine. Each pass smooths the scratches left by the previous grit. A properly sanded floor goes through at least 3–4 grit stages before the finish goes on. Rushing this process by skipping grits results in a finish that shows scratch lines under light — the difference is very visible.
After the final sanding pass, the floor is vacuumed and tacked (wiped with a tack cloth) to remove every particle of dust before the first coat of finish.
Coating Days
First coat
Applied by roller, brush, or spray depending on the product and area. The floor is blocked off — no foot traffic at all while wet.
Between coats
The floor is lightly sanded (abraded) between coats with a fine screen or abrasive to knock back any raised grain or dust nibs and ensure adhesion of the next coat. This is normal — it does not mean the coat was bad.
Final coat
Applied and left to cure. The crew will advise on the exact timeframe for when you can re-enter.
How Long Does the Job Take?
A standard house (3–4 bedrooms, 80–120 sqm of flooring) typically takes:
| Phase | Time |
|---|---|
| Sanding | 1–2 days |
| Gap filling and repairs | Same day as first sand |
| Coats (3 coats, water-based) | 2 additional days (drying between coats) |
| Total on-site | 3–4 days |
Larger or more complex jobs (herringbone parquetry, extensive repairs, staining) take longer. Small jobs (single room, one-coat maintenance) can be done in a day.
The Floor After the Job
It will look different — in a good way
Raw timber straight after sanding often looks paler or different in colour to what the finished result will be. Once the finish goes on, the colour and grain depth really show. Most people are pleasantly surprised.
Grain raise is normal
Water-based products cause a slight raising of the grain on the first coat — this is why there is a sanding step between coats. The final result is smooth.
Colour variation between boards is normal
Timber is a natural product. Different boards will absorb the finish differently and show different grain patterns. This is character, not a defect.
After the Crew Leaves
- The tradesperson will tell you exactly when you can walk on the floor and when furniture can go back
- Follow the cure time guidance — see the Cure Times guide for full details
- Do not lay rugs for at least 2 weeks (water-based) or 4 weeks (solvent)
- Fit felt pads to all furniture before it goes back
- Use a timber-safe cleaner for the first clean — no steam mop, no ammonia, no vinegar
Common Questions
Can I stay in the house while the job is happening?
Usually yes for water-based, with some inconvenience (noise, some dust, inability to use the floor area). For solvent-based, most people with children or health sensitivities choose to stay elsewhere during application.
What happens if it rains?
Humidity affects cure times and, in extreme cases, how the finish lays. A professional crew will monitor conditions and adjust scheduling if needed.
What if I find a problem after the job is done?
Contact your tradesperson promptly. Most issues raised within a few days of job completion (uneven areas, marks, drips) can be addressed. The longer you wait, the harder the fix.
Last reviewed: March 2026.